Puppy Handbook

Puppies: Recommendations for New Owners

We would like to congratulate you on the acquisition of your new puppy. Owning a dog can be an
extremely rewarding experience, but it is also a large responsibility. We hope this handout will give you most of the information you need to make some good decisions regarding your puppy.

Firstly, let us say that we are grateful that you have chosen us to help you with your puppy's health
care. If you have questions concerning any subject related to your puppy's health, please feel free to contact us. Our professional staff will be willing and happy to help you.

What type of play behaviour should I expect from a healthy puppy?

It is very important that you provide stimulating play for your puppy, especially during its first week in a new home. Stalking and pouncing are important play behaviours in puppies and are necessary for proper muscular development. Your puppy will be less likely to use family members for these activities if you provide adequate puppy-safe toys. The best toys are lightweight and mobile – these include wads of paper and rubber balls. Any toy that is small enough to be swallowed should be avoided. If you need help with selecting the safest toys for your puppy, please feel free to speak to us about it.

How do I discipline a puppy?

Disciplining a young puppy may be necessary if its behaviour threatens people or property, but harsh punishment should be avoided. Hand clapping and using shaker cans or horns can be intimidating enough to inhibit undesirable behaviour. However, remote punishment is preferred.

Remote punishment consists of using something that appears unconnected to the punisher to stop
the problem behaviour. Examples include using spray bottles, throwing objects in the direction of the puppy to startle (but not hit) it, and making loud noises.

Remote punishment is preferable because the puppy associates punishment with the undesirable act and not with you.

When should my puppy be vaccinated?

There are many fatal diseases of dogs. Fortunately, we have the ability to prevent several of these by vaccinating your pet. In order to be effective, these vaccines must be given as a series of injections. Ideally, they are given at about 6-8, 12-14, and 16-18 weeks of age, but this schedule may vary depending on your pet's individual needs.

The core vaccination schedule will protect your puppy from several common diseases: canine
distemper, canine infectious hepatitis, canine parainfluenza, and canine parvovirus. These are included in a single injection that is given at 6-8, 12-14, and 16-18 weeks old. There are two other optional vaccinations that are appropriate in certain situations. Your puppy should receive a Kennel Cough vaccine if a trip to a boarding kennel or groomer is likely or if it will be enrolled in puppy classes. A Lyme vaccine is given to dogs that are likely to be exposed to ticks because Lyme disease is transmitted by ticks. Please advise us of these needs on your next visit.

Why does my puppy need more than one vaccination?

When the puppy nurses from its mother, it receives a temporary form of immunity through its mother's milk. This immunity is in the form of proteins called maternal antibodies. For about 24-48 hours after birth, the puppy's intestines allow absorption of these antibodies directly into the bloodstream. This immunity is of benefit during the first few weeks of the puppy's life, but at some point, this immunity fails and the puppy must be able to make its own long-lasting immunity.

Vaccinations are used for this purpose. As long as the mother's antibodies are present, vaccinations administered will be inactivated and do not have a chance to stimulate the puppy's immune system. The mother's antibodies interfere by neutralising the vaccine.

Many factors determine when the puppy will be able to respond to the vaccinations. These include the level of immunity in the mother dog, how much antibody has been absorbed, and the number of vaccines given to the puppy. Since we do not know when exactly an individual puppy will lose its shortterm immunity, we give a series of vaccinations and hope that at least two of these will fall in the window of time when the puppy has lost immunity from its mother but has not yet been exposed to disease. However, a single vaccination, even if effective, is unlikely to stimulate the long-term immunity that is so important.

Do all puppies have worms?

Intestinal parasites are very common in puppies. Puppies can become infected with parasites either
before they are born or later via their mother's milk. The microscopic examination of a stool sample
will usually help us to determine the presence of intestinal parasites. We recommend this exam for all puppies. Even if we do not get a stool sample, we still recommend the use of a de-worming product that is safe and effective against several of the common worms of the dog. We do this because our deworming medication has no side-effects, and because your puppy does not pass worm eggs everyday so the stool sample may be negative for worms even though they are present.
Additionally, some of these internal parasites can be transmitted to humans. De-worming is done at
initial consultation and repeated in about three weeks. It is important that it be repeated because the
de-worming medication only kills the adult worms. Within 3-4 weeks, the larval stages will become adults and need to be treated. Treated dogs will remain susceptible to re-infection with hookworms and roundworms, thus periodic de-worming throughout the dog's life may be recommended for outdoor dogs.

Tapeworms

Tapeworms are one of the most common intestinal parasites of dogs. Dogs become infected with them when they swallow fleas because the eggs of the tapeworm live inside the flea. When the dog chews or licks its skin from flea bites, the flea may be swallowed. The flea is digested within the dog's intestines and the tapeworm hatches and then anchors itself to the intestinal lining. Therefore, exposure to fleas may result in a new infection.

Tapeworm infections can occur in as little as two weeks. Dogs infected with tapeworms will pass small segments of the worms in their stool. The segments are white in colour and look like grains of rice. They are about 1/8 inches (3mm) long and may be seen crawling on the surface of the stool. They may also stick to the hair under the tail. If that occurs, they will dry out, shrink to about half their size, and become golden in colour.

Tapeworm segments do not pass everyday or in every stool sample; therefore, inspection of several
consecutive bowel movements may be needed to find them. We may examine a stool sample in our clinic and not find them, and then you may find them at home the next day. If you find them at any time, please notify us so that we may provide you with the appropriate drug for treatment.

How important are heartworms?

Heartworms are important parasites, especially in certain climates. They live in the dog's bloodstream, particularly in the heart, and cause major damage to the heart and lungs. Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes. Fortunately, we have drugs that can protect your dog from heartworms. These drugs are very safe and effective if given regularly. We can help you choose the best product for your pet's needs and lifestyle. Heartworm preventatives are dosed according to weight. As your puppy's weight increases, the dosage should also increase. Please note the dosing instructions on the package.

There are lots of choices of dog foods. What should I feed my puppy?

Proper diet is extremely important during the growing months of a puppy's life. We recommend a
veterinary recommended name-brand food made by a national dog food company (not a generic or
local brand) and a diet made specifically for puppies. This should be fed until your puppy is about 12 to 18 months of age, depending on its breed and size. We recommend that you only buy food that has been certified by an independent organisation as complete and balanced. Such organisations do not endorse any particular brand of food, but will certify that the food has met the minimum requirements for nutrition.

Feeding a dry, canned, or semi-moist form of dog food is acceptable. Any of the formulations is
acceptable as long as the label states that the food is intended for growth (or is a puppy food), and is "complete and balanced". This means that the food is nutritionally complete and meets the needs for growth and development. Each of the types of food has advantages and disadvantages.

Dry food is definitely the most inexpensive. It can be left in the dog's bowl without drying.

Semi-moist foods may be acceptable, depending on their quality. The texture may be more appealing to some dogs, and they often have a stronger odour and flavour. However, semi-moist foods are often high in sugar.

Canned foods are a good choice to feed your puppy, but are considerably more expensive than either of the other forms of food. Canned foods contain a high percentage of water, and their texture, odour and taste are very appealing. However, canned food will dry out or spoil if left out for prolonged periods of time; it is therefore more suitable for "meal feeding" rather than "free choice feeding".

Table foods are usually not recommended. Because they are generally very tasty, dogs will often begin to hold out for these and not eat their well-balanced dog food. If you choose to give your puppy table food, ensure that at least 80-90% of its diet is comprised of good quality commercial puppy food.

We humans enjoy having a variety of things in our diet. However, most dogs actually prefer not to
change from one food to another unless they are trained to do so by the way you feed them. Do not feel guilty if your dog is happy to eat the same food day after day, week after week.

Commercials for dog foods can be very misleading. If you watch carefully, you will notice that
commercials often promote dog food on the basis of taste. Nutrition is rarely mentioned. Most of the 'gourmet' foods are marketed to appeal to owners who want the best for their dogs, however, they do not offer the dog any nutritional advantage over a good quality dry food, and they are far more expensive. If you read the labels of many of the gourmet foods, you will notice that they do not claim to be "complete and balanced". If your dog eats a gourmet food for a long time, it will probably not be happy with other food. If it requires a special diet later in life due to health problems, it is very unlikely to accept it.

How often should I feed my puppy?

There are several "right" ways to feed puppies. The most popular method is commonly called "meal feeding". This means that the puppy is fed at specific times of the day. A measured amount of food should be offered four times a day for 5-12 week old puppies. What is not eaten within 30 minutes is removed. If the food is eaten within 3-4 minutes, the quantity is probably insufficient. Puppies fed in this manner generally begin to cut back on one meal by 3-4 months of age and may cut back on another one later. If a particular meal is ignored consistently for several days, it should be discontinued.

"Free choice feeding" means that food is available at all times. This works well with dry foods and for some puppies. However, others tend to over-eat and become obese. If weight gain continues even after optimal size is reached, this method of feeding should be discontinued.

How do I housebreak my new puppy?

Housebreaking should begin as soon as your puppy enters its new home. The duration of training depends on both the puppy and you. Some puppies learn quicker than others. Your puppy wants to please you but it has a short memory, so your patience is important. A home with a poorly trained puppy is not a happy home.

Your puppy's bed can be a box, open at one end and slightly larger than your puppy. If the bed is too large, your puppy may urinate and defecate in a corner of it rather than go outside. If the bed is smaller, it is likely that your puppy would rather urinate and defecate outside than to soil its bed. Enclose the bed in a small area, such as the laundry room. Cover this area with newspapers at night or when your puppy is left unsupervised.

A common housebreaking technique is to create a "scent post". A scent post is created when your
puppy has an "accident". Locate the scent post where you want your puppy to urinate and defecate. To create a scent post, leave some wet paper or a smear of stool from the last "accident" on some clean paper in the place you want it, and scoot your puppy to that area. The same is true of an outside scent post, but without the paper, in an out-of-the-way place in the yard. This will solve the "minefield" problem.

First thing in the morning, your puppy should be scooted to the scent post. This is so it can learn its way to the door and the scent post. Let your puppy sniff about. The moment your puppy relieves itself, give it a pat on the head and immediately bring it into the house. Do not let your puppy play around. The toilet period and play period should be completely separate in your puppy's routine. Your puppy should then be fed. A short while later, your puppy will become uneasy and walk in
circles, sniffing at the floor. You should then scoot and coax your puppy to the scent post as quickly as possible. This routine should be repeated every hour or two throughout the day, especially after meals and naps.

When your puppy is taken out to play, it is wise to leave the house through another door and avoid
taking it near the scent post. Never play with your puppy until after it has been taken out and
urinated/defecated.

There will of course be some "accidents" in the house. Never let one of these slip by unnoticed; punishment five minutes after the offence is too late. Scold (not whip) your puppy and rush it to the scent post. Then scrub the area of mishap thoroughly until all odour is gone. We can recommend
some cleaning products to help neutralise any scent from these “accidents”. Positive reinforcement of proper urination and defecation habits is just as important as properly applied discipline. When your puppy urinates or defecates in the correct place, spend several minutes stroking and praising it.

How do I ensure that my puppy is well socialised?

The socialisation period for puppies is between 4 and 12 weeks of age. During this period, the puppy is very impressionable to social influences. If your puppy has good experiences with men, women, children, cats, other dogs etc. during this period, it is more likely to accept them throughout life. If the experiences are absent or unpleasant, your puppy may become apprehensive or adverse to any of them. Therefore, during the period of socialisation, we encourage you to expose your puppy to as many types of social events and influences as possible.

What can be done about fleas on my puppy?

Fleas do not stay on a dog all their life; occasionally, they jump off and seek another host. Therefore, it is important to kill any fleas on your new puppy before they can become established in your house.

Many of the flea control products that are safe on adult dogs are not safe for puppies under four months of age. Be sure that any flea product you use is labelled safe for puppies. We will provide you with age- and weight-specific flea control products that are safe for your puppy and highly effective at keeping your puppy flea-free. There are newer products available now that can prevent heartworm disease as well as control fleas. If you would like further information, please speak
to us to discuss the options available.

My puppy seems to be constantly chewing. Why does this occur?

Chewing is normal puppy behaviour. Almost all of a puppy's 28 baby teeth are present by about four weeks of age. They begin to fall out at four months of age and are replaced by the 42 adult (permanent) teeth by about six months of age. Therefore, chewing is a puppy characteristic that you
can expect until about 6-7 months of age. It is important that you do what you can to direct your puppy's chewing toward acceptable objects. You should provide puppy-safe items such as nylon chew bones and other chew toys so that other objects are spared.

My puppy has episodes of hiccupping and a strange odour to its breath. Are these normal?

Yes. Many puppies experience episodes of hiccupping that may last several minutes. This is normal
and will not last more than a few weeks or months. All puppies have a characteristic odour to their breath that is commonly called "puppy breath". This is also normal and will last only until the puppy matures.

Can I trim my puppy's sharp toenails?

Puppies have very sharp toenails. They can be trimmed with your regular nail clippers or with nail trimmers designed for dogs and cats. If you take too much off the nail, you will cut into the "quick" and cause bleeding and pain. If this happens, neither you nor the dog will want to do this again. Therefore, a few points are helpful:
• If your puppy has clear or white nails, you can see the pink of the quick through the nail. Avoid cutting into the pink area, and you should be out of the quick.
• If your puppy has black nails, you will not be able to see the quick so cut only 1/32 inches (1mm) of the nail at a time until your puppy starts to get sensitive. The sensitivity will usually occur before you are into the blood vessel. With black nails, it is likely that you will get too close on at least one nail.
• If your puppy has some clear and some black nails, use the average clear nail as a guide for
cutting the black ones.
• When cutting nails, use sharp trimmers. Dull trimmers tend to crush the nail and cause pain
even if you are not in the quick.
• You should always have styptic powder available. This is sold in pet stores under several trade names, but will be labelled for use in trimming nails. If you happen to cut the quick, apply some styptic powder to stop the bleeding.

What are ear mites?

Ear mites are tiny parasites that live in the ear canal of dogs (and cats). The most common sign of ear mite infestation is scratching of the ears. Sometimes the ears will appear dirty because of a black
discharge in the ear canal; this material is sometimes shaken out. The otoscope, which we use for examining the ear canals, allows us to see the mites under magnification. Sometimes, we can also find the mites by taking a small sample of the discharge from the ear canal and examining it under a microscope. Although they may leave the ear canals for short periods of times, they spend the vast majority of their lives within the protection of the ear canal. Transmission between dogs generally requires direct ear-to-ear contact. Ear mites are common in litters of puppies if their mother has ear mites or if they are in a dirty environment.

Ear infections are the most common cause for the production of a dark discharge in the ear canals. It is important that we examine your puppy to make sure that the black material is due to ear mites and not infection. Please do not ask us to dispense medication without having the opportunity to make an accurate diagnosis.

Why should I have my female dog speyed?

Speying offers several advantages. The female's heat periods result in about 2-3 weeks of vaginal bleeding. This can be quite annoying if your dog is kept indoors. Male dogs are attracted from blocks away and, in fact, seem to come out of the woodwork. They seem to go over, around, and through many doors and fences to get to a female dog in season. Your dog will have a heat period approximately every six months. In many cases, despite your best efforts, your female dog will become pregnant; speying prevents unplanned litters of puppies. Speying is the removal of the uterus and the ovaries, therefore heat periods no longer occur.

It has been proven that as the female dog gets older, there is a significant incidence of mammary cancer and uterine infections if she has not been speyed. Speying prior to her first heat period will virtually eliminate the chance of either. If you do not plan to breed your dog, we strongly recommend that she be speyed before her first heat period (which usually occurs around 6-7 months of age). The surgery can be performed anytime after 4-6 months of age.

Why should I have my male dog neutered?

Neutering offers several advantages. Male dogs are attracted to a female dog in season and will climb over or go through fences to find her. Intact male dogs are more aggressive and more likely to fight, especially with other male dogs. As dogs age, the prostate gland frequently enlarges and causes difficulty urinating and defecating. Neutering will solve, or greatly help, all of these problems that come with owning a male dog. The surgery can be performed anytime after 4-6 months of age.

If I choose to breed my female dog, how old should she be?

If you plan to breed your dog, she should have at least one or two heat periods first. She will then be more physically mature, allowing her to be a better mother. We do not recommend breeding after five years of age unless she has previously been bred prior to that. Having her first litter after five years of age increases the risk of complications during pregnancy or delivery. Once your dog has had her last litter, she should be speyed to prevent the reproductive problems older intact females tend to get.

Can you recommend something for pet identification?

The most widely recommended pet identification device is the microchip. This tiny device is implanted with a needle, much like administering an injection. A special scanner can detect these chips; veterinary hospitals, humane societies, and animal shelters across the country have these scanners. A national registry assists in the identification and return of microchipped pets that get lost. We strongly recommend microchipping all pets.

Are there any emergency tips that I should know?

There are several emergency situations that occur commonly. The following recommendations could be valuable for you to know. In any emergency situation, keep your pet as quiet as possible and try to conserve heat by covering it with bedding or newspapers. If necessary, apply the A, B and C of first aid:
A Airway
B Breathing
C Cardiac function

Airway
Anything that obstructs the airway prevents oxygen from entering the lungs. Do your best to clear the mouth and throat of any obstruction such as vomitus, saliva or foreign bodies such as grass, sticks or balls. Be careful; your pet may bite you in panic.
Breathing
If your dog is unconscious and does not appear to be breathing, try gently pumping the chest with the palm of your hand, at the same time feeling just behind the elbow to detect a heartbeat or pulse. Close the muzzle with your hand and blow into the nostrils. This is best accomplished by covering your dog's nose with your mouth. Be careful; injured pets may bite you out of fear. If you are unsure about the health or vaccination status of an injured pet, avoid contact with bodily fluids and blood.
Cardiac function
If you are unable to detect a heartbeat or pulse, or if it appears weak and slow, try pumping the chest with your palm. Five chest compressions followed by 1-2 deep breaths is a simple form of animal cardio-pulmonary resuscitation (CPR).

Specific first aid:

Blood loss
Once you have checked the A, B and C above, and if the bleeding is severe, try to stop it. If the bleeding is from a cut pad or paw, apply a dressing using a piece of bandage or clothing. If the bleeding persists and is soaking through the bandage, this is a medical emergency. Most bleeding wounds will require medical or surgical treatment. If the wounds are treated within four hours, they can often be sutured. Deep cuts treated after four hours have increased risk of infection and complication.

Burns and scalds
Cool the burned area with cold water as quickly as possible. Cover the burned area with damp towels. If the injury is due to a caustic substance, rinse with cold water for 15 minutes and contact a veterinarian.

Eye injuries
Injuries to the eyes are always painful. If a foreign body (grass awn, stick, etc.) can be seen, it may be possible to remove by gently rinsing the eye with eye wash or contact lens saline solution. Seek
veterinary advice as soon as possible.

Seizures
There can be many causes of seizures, ranging from eclampsia (milk fever) to epilepsy. If it is due to
eclampsia, remove the puppies from their mother immediately. All dogs that are seizuring or have had a recent seizure should be kept in a dark, quiet, confined area until medical help can be sought. Contact a veterinarian immediately.

Heat stroke
Heat stroke most commonly occurs in hot weather when dogs are left in cars without adequate ventilation. Body temperature rises dramatically. Clinical signs include excessive panting and obvious distress, quickly followed by coma and death. Reduce your dog's body temperature as quickly as possible using cool water and transport it to the nearest veterinarian while keeping it wet. Keep the car windows open; evaporation will help reduce body temperature. Avoid using ice or ice water because this may drop the body temperature too quickly and cause additional complications.

Once again, thank you for trusting us to assist with your puppy’s health care. We hope your puppy’s journey to adulthood is filled with lots of great fun. We look forward to seeing you and your puppy on your next visit.

This handout is based on material written by Ernest Ward, DVM.
© Copyright 2005 Lifelearn Inc. Used with permission under license. October 15, 2007.